![]() ![]() ![]() This replacement part is available by contacting Schlage customer support. If you continue to experience minor rubbing of the bolt on the top or side of the strike plate, you will need an alternate strike and security plate with additional clearance. The supplied strike is the correct size and shape to allow the bolt to extend and retract as intended without dragging. You’re adjusting the strike: that metal plate that’s in the door jamb. So you’re adjusting the striker, not the lockset. The easiest way to do it is just to adjust the lock, though. So, either way, you need to basically get the door closer to the weatherstripping. Remove the strike plate from your door frame and use the deadbolt strike supplied with your Schlage lock instead. Move that closer to the door and reattach it, as well. If enlarging the bolt hole doesn’t fix your door that doesn’t shut properly, check the existing metal strike plate, which could be affecting the bolt pocket’s depth. To make the bolt pocket deeper, taller or wider, depending on where your bolt is dragging, use a chisel on the bolt hole until it is 1” deep and allows the bolt to fully extend without dragging. ![]() This can be corrected by enlarging the bolt pocket or changing the strike plate. These latch strikes are used by many to replace most residential interior and exterior door strikes. To paraphrase über-realist ghoul Margaret Thatcher, “There is no alternative.If the bolt pocket is not deep enough or placed correctly, the bolt cannot extend fully, making it so your door won’t latch. play button How To Adjust Your Sliding Patio Door Wheels. Consider the repair realist notion of adjustable doors as a downmarket idea related to cabinetry’s more lofty methods. How-to Adjust a Mortise style Strike Plate on a LARSON door. Much of the knowledge of furniture making relates to how to allow for seasonal wood movement so that your table or cabinet doesn’t pull apart between the cold of winter and the heat and humidity of summer. ![]() We should have doors with tops and bottoms that extend and contract. One of the signs of spring here is neighbors hiring people to cut down their doors. While we’re at it we need to find a clever solution for doors that swell and contract. Why even bother with them? I suppose they keep the wood from getting rubbed away by the latch bolt but they don’t do much else. To lower the latch, replace one screw at the bottom hinge. If the problem is a latch that sits too low in the hole, replace one screw at the top hinge to lift the latch. One meek kick to the door and the strike plate will break away. This should pull in the door jamb on the hinge side, allowing the latch to sit snugly in the strike plate hole. Strike plates are a kind of security theater anyways. Then all you have to do is loosen the screws rather than have to drill new holes or worse, have to repair the holes before you can drill them again. So to make less tedious the yearly task of adjusting the strike plate of the door so that the latch bolt will go into it, I came up with a “repair realist” solution: just notch the damn strike plate so that you can move it up and down. But since the hasty builders who slapped together this bungalow a hundred years ago didn’t bother to give us a basement or even enough of a crawl space to access the foundation, those structural repairs ain’t gonna happen. Sure it would be great to repair the foundation and beef up the floor joists. We’ve got this door that moves up and down with the seasons. I’m thinking of calling it “repair realism” as a nod to Mark Fisher’s idea of capitalist realism (the sense that we can’t imagine a way out of our current mess and we’ll just have to accept it). I’ve been struggling to find a word or phrase for those many times, especially in an old house, when you just resign yourself to a repair solution that just kinda works without fixing the underlying problem. ![]()
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